Spantik / Golden Peak Expedition

Spantik or Golden Peak is a mountain in Spantik-Sosbun Mountains subrange of Karakoram in Nagar Valley, Gilgit Baltistan, Pakistan. Its northwest face features an exceptionally hard climbing route known as the “Golden Pillar”. It lies east of Diran and northeast of Malubiting.  The success of this type of adventure, apart from weather conditions, depends upon the physical structure of each participant on one hand, and the other hand, on their indispensable experience of high mountains, the roped parties should be self-sufficient, even if we provide the equipment of or the main glacier difficulties (45/50 degree) of fixed cords.

The roped parties will have to participate as much as possible in the installation of equipment. The expedition is for mountaineers who have the experience of climbing as independent roped parties, on snow and glaciers of AD Level. High altitude experience is required, for example, climbing of any 6000. An excellent physical condition, as well as regular practice, is required to enjoy this exceptional itinerary. The high altitude difficulties are expected such as isolation, lack of oxygen, cold, blizzards, etc.

During the following 18 days, we will have one objective, to climb the Spantik, for that matter, we would need three high altitude camps:

Camp-I at about 4450m, less uneven path but away from the base camp (we climb up to the birthplace of Chogolungma glacier, about 8 km.
Camp-II at 5300m
Camp-III at 6050m

Certain parts of the path between different camps will be equipped with fixed cords for safety and going and coming without problem
Climbing to C2 and C3 are real magnificent paths, as each camp is installed at a mini-summit of southeastern ridge giving a view of 360 degrees.
The distribution of collective tasks for high altitude camps is based on rotation among mountaineers, team and the guide (or guides)
From Camp 3, there will still be 950m of the uneven path that will have to be covered within one day in order to reach the summit.
Going and coming between camps will help you for acclimatization, the key to success in the majority of cases. The dismantling of camps will also be a collective task done under the guidance of the guide.

east it joins the Pir Panjal Range.